The curtains have closed on the final shows of the A/W 2016 womenswear season. Paris Fashion Week’s sets were a more sedate affair than those of Milan and London, with the likes of Karl Lagerfeld eschewing the theatricality of previous seasons, in favour of simple elegance. But they were no less striking. We take you across the city’s arrondissements to showcase the highlights.
Karl Lagerfeld has turned the Grand Palais into everything from a supermarket to an airport terminal for past Chanel shows, but this season’s set was a decidedly more simple production. Mirrors expanded the space, while gold-painted chairs lined the catwalk. Instead he let the clothes do the talking, reimagining the Grand Palais as a salon where everyone sat front row.
Disposable razors, brillo pads and hair doughnuts filled perspex box seats at Spanish label Loewe’s A/W 2016 catwalk show inside the UNESCO headquarters in Paris. Designer J.W. Anderson’s playful touch extended from set to stage as models, wearing kitschy perspex cat necklaces, trotted down the runway in a collection celebrating fabrication. Pieces brought together Anderson’s love of futuristic materials with the fashion house’s traditional leather staple.
Lanvin held its A/W 2016 show inside the Lycée Carnot. The ‘collaborative collection’ was the first since the departure of creative director Alber Elbaz and marked a change in direction for the brand – the set, however, was classic Lanvin.
American designer Rick Owens took to the concrete basement of the Art Deco Palais de Tokyo for his A/W 2016 show. Models wearing beehive-esque hairballs and free-flowing drapes roamed through the raw space and down its spiral staircase.
The French fashion house broke out the disco architecture for its A/W 2016 set at the Louis Vuitton Foundation. The futuristic ‘space forest’ featured tree trunks wrapped in cracked mirror mosaic tiles – a nod to the collection which featured, among other materials, metal shards.
Prada’s younger sister kept things simple for its A/W 2016 catwalk. Miuccia Prada’s collection was about all layering and the revival of the twinset. Its actual set, however, was a pared-back affair with coloured-block platforms lining the runway.
Moncler Gamme Rouge
An icy tundra formed the backdrop for Moncler Gamme Rouge’s A/W 2016 collection at the Grand Palais. Models drifted down a Swiss Alps themed-runway to the soundtrack of echoing yodels, wearing platform clogs and alpine hats. A largely white collection of knits and coats completed the look.
The hallways of the 19th-century Palais Garnier – stomping ground of the fictional Phantom of the Opera – staged the show for Stella McCartney’s new collection. With minimal intervention into the setting, the theatre’s chandeliers and ornate detailing spoke for themselves as Daddy McCartney, among others, watched on.
Givenchy head Riccardo Tisci created a meandering maze inside the steel and glass structure of the Carreau du Temple, a 19th-century market hall, for the label’s new collection. The wooden contraption focused the audience’s field of vision on the models walking past, reducing the distraction of front-row stargazing, especially with Kanye, Bradley Cooper and Anna Wintour in attendance.
At the Cour Carrée du Louvre, Bureau Betak created a spaceship-like stage for Dior that evoked Stanley Kubrick’s 2001: A Space Odyssey. Mirrors on the outside of the building warped reflections of the surrounds, while inside, models walked through rounded metal apertures that were flanked by stepped seating.
La Mode en Images created the sporty backdrop for Céline’s A/W 2016 show at The Tennis Club de Paris. Models walked between tiered neon seats, installed on top of bleachers. Designer Phoebe Philo’s collection championed looseness and layering, with swooshing, roomy pants and smock-like dresses dominating the show. Game, set and match.
The Hôtel Potocki – once the home of Polish nobility – played host to Acne Studio’s A/W 2016 Collection. Its grand architecture was given a neon hit, with psychedelic sunsets illuminating the seating – a nod to surfer Robin Kegel, who starred in last season’s campaign.