Milan revels in a varied fashion landscape. On the one hand it is known for the restrained, feminine sophistication of Prada and Marni, with their architectural clothes and architect-designed sets. On the other, it is the home of ‘the baron of bad taste’, Philippe Plein, who this year presented ‘Alice in ghetto-land’, an amusement park complete with a flying chair carousel and Paris Hilton. We’ve sorted the hits from the horrors at last week’s shows.
Alessandro Michele’s latest for Gucci was, without question, the most anticipated show of Milan, and this season the set caused as much comment as the clothes. Guests were welcomed into a shimmering lounge bar decorated with banquettes, jewel curtains and over 250,000 mirrored sequins, the whole thing doused in vivid pink light.
Donatella Versace emphasised the sensuality of sportswear in her S/S 2017 collection, the models striding down a vivid purple carpet amid a dazzling confection of spotlights.
Consuelo Castiglioni’s collection was all billowing silhouettes and oversized pockets, which contrasted exquisitely with the structured square lines, distressed stone walls and sheer gauze panels of the set.
A collaboration with Oscar-winning director David O Russell turned Prada’s S/S 2017 show into a fashion/film hybrid. Models walked through a silver mesh landscape conjured by AMO – the design studio arm of architecture practice OMA – overseen by large screens projecting a surreal short starring Allison Williams. The show notes explained, ‘the new space is built over the remnants of the previous season which serve as both a foundation, and visible background, for the current scenography.’
Vivid metal meshwork lined the catwalk at MSGM, recalling both the silver cages at Prada and many of the garments – a highlight from the collection were the netted sack dresses in matching primary colours.
For his latest collection for Roberto Cavalli, the ever-exuberant Peter Dundas, working with Bureau Betak, transformed Milan’s Società del Giardino into a sumptuous Marrakech riad. Palm trees swung low over red velvet chairs while the walls and floors were swathed with vibrant patterned tiles and fabrics.
Already known for his love of kitsch, Jeremy Scott pushed the nostalgia button still harder this season with a collection styled as clothes for paper dolls. This impression was heightened by the set, a giant rendering of a plushly-lined doll box.
Veronica Etro paved her runway with woven rattan mats and seated her guests on a rainbow of handmade cushions, creating a complementary backdrop to her collection of elegant adventure-wear.
This season, to align with the house’s 50 year anniversary and creative director Tomas Maier’s 15 years at the helm, Bottega Veneta celebrated heritage and longevity. The show location was the Accademia di Belle Arti di Brera, where models – including the 72 year old veteran Lauren Hutton – walked down stone flagged passages lined with classical statues and Renaissance paintings.